I will never forget my first trip to Multiforo Alicia.

I had traveled to Mexico City in the summer of 2000 with my two friends, Carlos and Serge. I had been told by another friend that upon my arrival in Mexico City, to pick up a copy of Tiempo Libre at a newsstand; it is Mexico City’s weekly culture magazine, with concert and film listings and the like. For the Saturday night that we were there, we were looking for something to do, and under the music listings, the show at Alicia was the only game in town. The three of us went to the club, got up into the venue, and all thought the same thing. “This is insane.” Carlos left after a few minutes, but Serge and I stayed and loved it. So much so that after plenty of beers, we met some of the band members playing that night (everyone was curious who we were, being white at a Mexican rock show), and they invited us to a house party after the show. To be honest, we were both kinda scared, but we went anyways. I can’t remember much except to say that we made it back to the hotel in a taxi around sunrise. We were sick as dogs the next day.

I still go to Alicia every time I am in Mexico City.

Multiforo Alicia is, in their own words, an underground culture laboratory. I know them primarily for the many concerts I have attended there, but they hold youth conferences, they fight for political causes, and do whatever they can to serve Mexico City’s five million youth.

The following is what Alicia is like at a concert. I fear my words won’t do it justice, but I’ll do the best I can to convey the experience.

Located at Cuauhtémoc 91 in the Colonia Roma neighbourhood, Vertigo Galeria is right around the corner at Colima 23. There’s a head shop/tattoo shop next door to Alicia, and a strip joint a few doors further down the street. You can see the venue by opening Google Streetview and copying and pasting this:

Eje 1 Poniente 91, Roma, 06700 Cuauhtémoc, Distrito Federal, Mexico

Music fans gather outside and hang out, there are street vendors selling bootleg cds and wrestling masks, and manning the door patiently is Ignacio Pineda, the owner of the venue. Here’s a Youtube interview with him. His crew of staff and volunteers – Los Alicios – help keep the place running. Upon paying your admission you step inside the doorway into a small room where band merchandise is for sale behind a counter, along with bottles of cold beer, fifteen pesos each the last time I was there.

At the other end of the room are two tiny bathrooms, and a doorway that leads up a winding flight of stairs to the concert/event space. Every time I go there the same thing happens as I go up the stairs – the temperature rises by 5 degrees each step you take, and the oxygen in the air diminishes by 5%. By the time you get into the space, it is so crammed with people, the heat is almost unbearable, and your lungs feel like they’re about to explode. But you know what? If all these other people can take it, then so can I. So I do.

The room is a big rectangle and fits probably 300 people, but I’m sure many more get wedged in. I actually played there, and am proud to say that neither myself nor any of my bandmates fainted from the physical exertion. You really have to go to this venue to understand what it’s like. I have seen thousands of bands, and played in all kinds of clubs around the world, and there is nothing – nothing! – like Alicia. Here’s four reasons why.

First – the audience. If it’s a surf or garage show, you will see lots of people wearing luchador masks and moshing. To surf! Amazing. Because there are so many people and you’re all pushed up against each other, you become part of a living extension of humanity, where everyone becomes One. People are jumping up and down and crowd-surfing. It is a riot.

Second – the sightlines. There are no posts in the way, and the stage is nice and big, up about four feet from audience level, so there are no bad sightlines in the room. It’s a great venue for me because I am 6’5″, and the tallest in the place.

Third – the sound. It’s magnificent. Check this out – Los Twin Tones performing live, with a full-on horn section. Alicia is also set up to record bands live in the space as well.

Fourth – the heat. You have to wiggle your way through the crowd to a corner of the room, where two frazzled beerslingers serve cold cervezas up as fast as they can. It is FREAKISHLY HOT, and the beer is SO COLD AND GOOD. Always drink them double-fisted, you’ll just save yourself repeat trips.

I hope you go to Multiforo Alicia if you’re ever in Mexico City, but be quick about it – it is under constant threat of closure by the government and the police, for its ‘subversive’ activities. If you make it there, tell the owner at the front door, Ignacio Pineda, that SuperD from the Tijuana Bibles says “Hola!”

Next up, I’ll write about the biggest sandwich in Mexico City – El Gladiator! Until then, Vive Mexico!

In 2006, my band the Tijuana Bibles traveled to Mexico City to play three shows. The biggest was on a Saturday night at Cultural Roots, at Tacuba 81 near the Zocalo. Over 1500 people! This event was called LuchaMania, and we were the headliners, on a bill with Los Twin Tones, Sr. Bikini, and Los Lunaticos. Here’s footage of us performing “Mexican Courage” at the show - check out the luchadors on the left!

The event was a celebration of all things lucha libre. In addition to the bands, to stage right a wrestling ring was set up, and during our set there were actual matches going on while we played! Behind the bands were enormous paintings of famous luchadors in non-wrestling situations, placed out of context. I was blown away by the artwork, and via members of Sr. Bikini I met the artist, Ismael Olivares. Besides painting and drawing and graffitti work, Ismael also tattoos out of his own private studio.

YES!

Ismael’s tattoo studio

It was a couple of years later that I reconnected with him via Jorge Alderete, to get some work done on me while in Mexico City. I wanted a tattoo of La Parka. On this trip, I brought along my good friend The Mouth, to share the Mexico City experience with. We had a ball drinking at cantinas, shopping in Tepito, going to see bands, and seeing lucha libre live at Arena Mexico and Arena Coliseo. On the day of my tattoo appointment, Mouth did his thing in the city, while I took the Metro out towards Ismael’s place, and then took a taxi to his house. It was in what I guess would be a gated community. His house was beautiful, and I immediately felt comfortable. This wasn’t a back alley tattoo shop, I was in the hands of a true professional.

Ismael drawing La Parka

I had sent Ismael photos of my forearm, where I wanted the La Parka tattoo, and what he had come up with was beyond inspired. Lots and lots of black, though – I was in for a serious bout of inking.

Four hours later it was done – I had an enormous new tattoo on my left forearm, of the infamous Chairman Of The Board! I was feeling a bit woozy from my giant open wound, so Ismael called me a cab, and I took it all the way back to the hotel, where I passed out on my bed, exhausted.

My La Parka tattoo!

The next day I unwrapped the bandage, washed it, and showed it off to the Mouth. He was mightily impressed! We went out to a cantina to celebrate with a few cervezas.

I love the tattoo Ismael gave me so much, on another trip I went back and got Pierroth, right beside La Parka. I still have space on my forearm for a third – ideally a closeup of Villano III with his mask ripped open and gushing blood.

If you’re ever in the mood to get tattooed while in Mexico City, I can give no higher recommendation than to visit Ismael Olivares. You can check out his work and reach him via his website – www.amrastyle.com – and when you do, tell him Stacey Case says “Hola!”

Next, I’ll be writing about the greatest place to see a band play live in Mexico City! Until then, Viva Mexico!

A one-legged, crutch-wielding beggar in the streets of the Tepito market years ago called me a “Gringo m___erf___er,” with a look of disgust on his filthy face. I proudly responded with a smile, “No, soy Canadiense!” He smiled back at his error, for ‘gringo’ is a derogatory word for Americans in Mexico City. I am not American, therefore I am not a gringo.

Other than that one occasion, I have never been harassed in Tepito. This is a popular misconception about this sprawling bootleg market that winds down any and all side streets between the Metro stops Lagunilla and Tepito, for what seems like miles and miles. It is not dangerous – it is safe! At least, I feel safe…

Tepito is part of the daily life of Mexico City, filled with people eking out an existence however they can. It’s where everyone shops to get cheap deals. I can spend all day there, and I usually do, a couple of days per trip I take. Some vendors sell the latest Chinese knockoffs of comic book superhero figures, others sell women’s faux designer jeans or men’s sneakers, all brand new. In areas where the whole street is closed off due to all of the vendor tents, women set up mobile beer stands and offer frosty beverages to the passers-by.

Let’s take a look at Tepito, shall we? By the way, I usually take a VW Bug taxi from my hotel to the Lagunilla metro station instead of to the Tepito station, as Lagunilla vendors have more cds and dvds than at Tepito. Then I walk back to the hotel when I’m done, by following the signs that say ‘Zocalo.’

Open Google Streetview, and copy and paste this:

José Joaquín Herrera, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, Mexico City, Distrito Federal, México

You’ve just been dropped into part of the Tepito market. With the image zoomed out (the default view), you should see the Metro sign for Lagunilla at the upper left, and the Metro sign for Tepito at the upper right. In between and around those stops, and leading back to the Zocalo, down nearly every side street is shopping! Click and drag the map so you can see more of the bottom left – that’s where the Zocalo is in relation to where you are.

Now go back to your street. When the Google Streetview car drove down this street, it managed to capture the market during the day. If you zoom in all the way, you’ll see the roofs of tents. Click and drag the little yellow man (above the Zoom tool) onto the street. So you’re there! It might not look like much right now, but take one step, and the view changes to a busy street!  Now you can walk around and take a look at what’s for sale! You can seriously get lost in the moment of this virtual walkabout (I certainly did when I tried it), and I encourage it. Have fun!

So you’re back – did you find anything interesting? Did you look up by Lagunilla at all of the tents? Go ahead and take a look (zoom out a bit) – there are so many it is unbelievable! I look for the rock n’ roll stuff in Tepito. In that massive jungle of tents by Lagunilla is where they’ll be. Tees, cds, and dvds. Dvd and cd shopping in Tepito is ridiculous. They are generally 5 to 10 pesos each. Fifty cents to a dollar. Many of the vendors sell the latest pop fluff, or current boring movies, so you have to really look to find the good stuff. Finding a rock and roll vendor selling bootlegs is the best. I paid $1 for the Trojan box set on cd! Other vendors specialize in live concerts from around the world. It is the weirdest feeling to be in a giant Mexico City street market and checking out a dvd of live footage of Motorhead in Montreal. How in the hell did that get there?

I’ll be honest – I have another secret, personal reason why I look so hard for cool vendors selling cool stuff – I’m looking to see if I’m being bootlegged. For real! And it happens too! Being the drummer in the Tijuana Bibles, we played in Mexico City, we’re known there, and our cds have been bootlegged there. It is a source of deep pride for me, whenever I find us being bootlegged in Tepito.

The best was finding my feature film Enter Zombie King being bootlegged. IN SPANISH! The vendor was selling other Mexican Wrestling films, and there I was, right in the middle of El Santo and Blue Demon films. Shocked, I laughed and looked at the long-haired, rocker vendor, pointed to myself and my film, and said “Soy el director!” He laughed out loud, and without a moment’s hesitation said “Thirty pesos.” Chuckling, I ponied up and bought three, and he threw an extra one in for free. I was so proud!

This is why I love Mexico City so much. I feel personally connected to it via pop culture. If some music that I helped write, or a film that I directed, puts some money into the pocket of a Mexican street vendor, I don’t have a problem with it. It makes me feel special. And lucky. I don’t see Blue Rodeo cds for sale there, that’s for sure. I don’t get philosophical about what’s actually happening (no royalties to our band etc), it just is what it is. A source of pride.

So that’s the Tepito market! I hope you enjoyed walking the streets. Next up is who tattoos me when I’m in Mexico City. Until then, Viva Mexico!

I was wondering how to write about Hotel Principal, which is the hotel I stay at whenever I am in Mexico City. It is located downtown, five blocks west of the Zocalo (main square) on Bolivar 29 between Madero and 16 de Septembiere. But how to share the joy I feel whenever I think of the hotel? How about Google Streetview! To see the hotel in the context of an overview of the downtown core, copy and paste this:

Bolívar 29, Centro, Cuauhtémoc, Ciudad de México, México

into Google Streetview. You’ll see a map of the downtown core on your right, and a photo of Bolivar 29 on your left. Click on the photo. You are now facing south. The hotel has a small door just south of the Parrilla Leonesa, that leads down a small hallway to the front desk. Don’t eat at the Parrilla Leonesa – trust me.

Rooms at the Hotel Principal are, to me, very cheap, considering the excellent location. I usually get room 202, which looks out onto the street below. It costs 180 pesos per night, or $18 Canadian. Rooms are large, but always ask to get a room with windows out to the street – some of the other rooms can feel confining, due to the lack of windows.

Now – let’s get you oriented. Turn yourself around, so you are facing North. You’ll see icons on your left listing places that you can click on to read reviews. Up ahead is Salon Corona, but before that, unlisted, to the right of the Oxxo (a 24-hour convenience store like 7-11) is a small cafe, serving espresso, cappucino and my favorite, cafe con leche (espresso coffee with sweetened condensed milk). They also serve sandwiches and sweets. Every morning, this is where I go for my cup of Joe and a muffin.

Further ahead is my favorite place in Mexico City for pints and tacos con pastor – Salon Corona. Always busy, always packed, the place is loud, with sports playing on multiple big screens throughout the restaurant slash cantina. I usually sit at the front bar and watch the women prepare dishes while I eat and drink. I like the lager on tap (simply called clara) over the dark (negra).

Tacos con pastor is my favorite food to eat in Mexico City. Sliced pork is roasted on a spit and marinated with a sweet blend of spices, chipotle, pineapple and onion, then sliced, chopped and served on warm corn tortillas, I can’t get enough of them. It is classic Mexican street food – and cheap, too! 14 pesos ($1.40) each! Six of them is more than enough to fill me up. Here’s a recipe for them.

Back to Google Streetview. Start walking straight ahead (north). Cross Madero and go to the next block, 5 De Mayo. Take a right, and head down to the corner of 5 De Mayo and Isabel La Catolica. Gili Pollos! Every trip I take, I always make sure I eat at this place too! They roast chickens, and serve them either straight up or flattened (ranchero style). I usually get the ranchero chicken. Half a chicken with potatos or chips and tortillas for 28 pesos! Less than three bucks!

All around the area, from the hotel to the Zocalo, all of the side streets – there are countless places to eat. Lots of cantinas to stop in and have a drink at. I love exploring these places during the day – not so much at night, as most places are closed by then. If I don’t have friends to meet in the evening, or a gig to go to, I usually stop at the Oxxo across from Hotel Principal and get a few cans of cerveza, and watch some television in my room before hitting the hay. Then I do it all over again the next day!

In my next post, I’ll write about Tepito, the craziest outdoor market I’ve ever seen. No trip to Mexico City is complete without a visit to it! Until then, Viva Mexico!

This is the first in a series of posts I’ll be writing about Mexico City, my favorite place to visit in the world. My goal is to try and persuade you to take a trip there.

Why do I care about the place so much? Well, I was the drummer in a Mexican wrestling-themed garage rock band called the Tijuana Bibles for eight years. I put the band together to write soundtrack music for a series of Super8 wrestling films I made in the mid to late 90′s. By the end of our run we had released four cds, three 7″ records, and toured Europe four times. We even toured in Mexico City! What began as a fascination with lucha libre (Mexican wrestling) morphed into a deep love and respect for all things Spanish.

I have been selling Mexican wrestling masks as a side gig for over ten years now. I can’t count the amount of times I have travelled to Mexico City to buy them in bulk. I have friends there that run art galleries. I know where to go to see bands play. I know where the good markets are to buy bootleg dvds. I know where to buy Mexican pop culture artefacts. I have travelled in a van with legendary Mexican wrestler Super Astro to an out-of-town wrestling show. I have seen Lizmark in training, unmasked. I have met Hijo del Santo, Blue Demon Jr, La Parka and Vampiro Canadiense. I have been tattooed twice in Mexico City, and both pieces are of Mexican wrestlers. I have played shows with the Tijuana Bibles in Mexico City with the masked bands Lost Acapulco and Sr. Bikini. I have been taken on a private guided tour of the Mexican Pop Culture Museum, run by two Japanese Mexicans. I even have my own tailor-made mariachi suit!

Jorge Alderete is actually from Argentina, but has been living in Mexico City for years. He is a graphic designer, an illustrator, an animator, he runs a record label with one of the fellas in Lost Acapulco, and he runs an art gallery called Vertigo Galeria with his partner Clarisa Maura. He is also my friend.

I first met Jorge via email – he had contacted the Bibles in 1999 to ask if we would like to submit an instrumental song to an international compilation cd he was going to release, called Locos Instrumentales. How he found out about us, I have no idea. We submitted a track called Mexican Courage (a euphemism for tequila) that has surprisingly gained traction with Mexican fans – there are still bands covering it there!

Clarisa and Jorge have the most beautiful apartment I have seen in Mexico City. Tiled floors, smooth rounded walls, the place is enormous. I have stayed overnight there, and watched classic Mexican b-horror films like La Loba with them, while drinking cans of beer purchased at the store downstairs. They live on Alvaro Obregon in the Colonia Roma neighbourhood, very close to their gallery on Colima 23. On weekends, street vendors sell their wares – antique books and magazines, vintage art and more – right across from their apartment, along a tree-lined lane that divides their street in half. It’s no wonder Jorge has such cool stuff – he just has to go outside to buy it!

Jorge’s studio in the apartment is crammed with Mexican pop culture that I am very envious of. A drawing desk is littered with overflowing work. His portfolio for shows he has designed posters for is incredible. He is respected around the world for his art. If there was a way I could bring him here to Toronto for an art show, I would do it in a heartbeat. Now that I think of it, there may be a way…

If you are in Mexico City and want to get a taste of independent, original Spanish pop culture, I can make no higher recommendation than to simply go to Vertigo. You’ll find cool stuff to buy, and you’ll have a chance to chat with whoever is working there. I’ve found that most everyone involved in the independent scene has a basic grasp of the English language, so don’t be afraid if your Spanish skills aren’t that good. Like-minded people have all kinds of ways to bridge the language barrier! And if you happen to meet Jorge or Clarisa, tell them that Stacey Case says “Hola!”

In my next update I’ll write about my favorite hotel, and all the great places that are around it. Until then, Viva Mexico!